When you open the params for any stitch type you'll get options for tack and lock stitches:
* Allow lock stitches: defines at which position lock stitches may be added (if they are actually included depends on distances to previous or next stitch element and the minimum jump stitch length setting)
* Force lock stitches: sew lock stitches after sewing this element, even if the distance to the next object is smaller than defined in the minimum jump stitch length value value in the Ink/Stitch prefreneces. This needs to be enabled for lock stitches if you use manual stitch type
Btw.. is it kosher to to add an actual dst file for review? Kind of like leaving me open to critique and suggestions of what I did wrong or what could be better on my first try here?
You got yourself a very challenging piece for embroidery.
Usually you wouldn't use a fill stitch for this. With embroidery you'll want to add dimension of some type as stitches give a texture.
Here are two examples just to show off options on how to approach the design. I didn't use the full design so it can all fit in my hoop. So this is just to give you an idea.
1. Shows your original design with fill stitches
2. Is converted to satin stitches. It gives a much more defined look. You need to be careful not to make the satin columns too narrow and overlap them in other areas better than I did here. Since you are breaking up the design in multiple peaces, make sure you connect them properly with running stitches, so it can go in one pass without any jumps.
3. Is a little fun peace. Scribble with running stitches to fill up the shape. Gives you a much more rough look if that is what you are after. Everything drawn with one line only.
Sorry for the delay (case of food poisoning threw me off track for a few) --I can't thank you enough! Satin stitch is the way to go. But clearly I need to learn a lot more. I didn't break it up into multiple pieces, that was done for me by Inkspace.
The back story here, and reason why I am learning this is that after paying a chunk to have it digitized, the company instated a policy that it costs another $150. for the file. Differing business ethics dictate my venture into learning. :)
I can't seem how to embed post a picture of their cap prototype so I've posted a pic their embroidery on my website ---but it came out a lot like your satin stitch.
So the company that'll be doing the stitching kindly mentioned I needed to add a tie off that prevents the embroidery from coming loose.
I'm sure that must exist but I've yet to find it... any hints where I can look in Inkspace?
I guess this simple question stumped the gurus ....
When you open the params for any stitch type you'll get options for tack and lock stitches:
* Allow lock stitches: defines at which position lock stitches may be added (if they are actually included depends on distances to previous or next stitch element and the minimum jump stitch length setting)
* Force lock stitches: sew lock stitches after sewing this element, even if the distance to the next object is smaller than defined in the minimum jump stitch length value value in the Ink/Stitch prefreneces. This needs to be enabled for lock stitches if you use manual stitch type
* Tack stitch/Lock stitch: define style
More details about lock stitch styles can be found here: https://inkstitch.org/docs/stitches/lock-stitches/
Niiiiceee! Thank you Kaaleen!
Btw.. is it kosher to to add an actual dst file for review? Kind of like leaving me open to critique and suggestions of what I did wrong or what could be better on my first try here?
It depends on the rights and possible license restrictions you have on the design.
I don't know if this forum accept dst files, but sending it as an svg file would make much more sense anyway when you want a review on your params.
The logo being used for the embroidery file is of my own design and both © TM
File for any kindly review / suggestions:
www.pixelmixing.com/1/greaseball-inkscape.svg
www.pixelmixing.com/1/greaseball-inkscape.dst
You got yourself a very challenging piece for embroidery.
Usually you wouldn't use a fill stitch for this. With embroidery you'll want to add dimension of some type as stitches give a texture.
Here are two examples just to show off options on how to approach the design. I didn't use the full design so it can all fit in my hoop. So this is just to give you an idea.
1. Shows your original design with fill stitches
2. Is converted to satin stitches. It gives a much more defined look. You need to be careful not to make the satin columns too narrow and overlap them in other areas better than I did here. Since you are breaking up the design in multiple peaces, make sure you connect them properly with running stitches, so it can go in one pass without any jumps.
3. Is a little fun peace. Scribble with running stitches to fill up the shape. Gives you a much more rough look if that is what you are after. Everything drawn with one line only.
Sorry for the delay (case of food poisoning threw me off track for a few) --I can't thank you enough! Satin stitch is the way to go. But clearly I need to learn a lot more. I didn't break it up into multiple pieces, that was done for me by Inkspace.
The back story here, and reason why I am learning this is that after paying a chunk to have it digitized, the company instated a policy that it costs another $150. for the file. Differing business ethics dictate my venture into learning. :)
I can't seem how to embed post a picture of their cap prototype so I've posted a pic their embroidery on my website ---but it came out a lot like your satin stitch.
Aiai, hope you are good now!
You are welcome. They did a much better job than I did, but everything in there is possible with Ink/Stitch.
That is a difficult logo to translate to embroidery. Good luck.