Obviously I'm new to Inkscape, and more than likely this question has been asked and answered a million times.  But by now my head is spinning I've looked at so many web tutorials, hopefully a simple answer to a simple question is available here.  I want to take a photo, a JPG about 2 meg in size, massage that photo in Inkscape to create a file that the Epilog Pro laser I have access to can engrave the photo to wood.  The step that is confusing me is just how to use the Trace Bitmap feature, and what to save the output as...SVG, PNG, PDF...other.  I've mastered simple text document in Inkscape and have taken that SVG file, loaded to the Epilog dashboard, and burned an acceptable wood plaque.  Now I want to add a photo to the plaque, but all my tests come out very washed out.  I can see the subject (dog) but most of the definition is missing.  I've played with Multicolor>Scans, run it up to 24, and the example in Inkscale is acceptable.  Save as SVG, print it over to the Epilog, and again a very washed out burn (using thin basswood sheets to test).  Does the original photo need to be converted to Grayscale before using the Trace Bitmap?  Are there other steps needed?  I've got Raster and Vector running around inside my head until I almost pass out.  Maybe Inkscape isn't the software for my needs, but I suspect its my issue.  Of course it could be settings in the Epilog, but that's for another group.  If I know that the steps I am taking in Inkscape are correct to create a file that should engrave correctly on wood on the laser, then I'll deal with the necessary changes on the Epilog.  I just need to be confident the process I am doing in Inkscape is correct for the intended use of the resultant photo file.  Thanks.

Epilog lasers only need vector objects to cut... no need to trace bitmaps to engrave images.

I'd try getting the bitmap to engrave properly, then add the text. If the text is engraving too deeply, I'd try making it grey instead of black.

We use Inkscape almost exclusively with two 50w Epilog Helix lasers at our makerspace.

Thanks for the reply, but I'd appreciate some more specifics. The plaque I created with just text and was done completely within Inkscape.  Everything was just black and white fill.  I saved the work as an SVG and then sent it to the Epilog, and it engraved fine.  However the process of dealing with a photo has proven much more complicated, at least for this noob.  Probably rudimentary stuff for seasoned veterans, but a step by step process would be very helpful.  Bringing the color JPG into Inkscape seems easy enough with just a copy and paste, but the next steps to get a photo properly converted for engraving and in the right file format (SVG, PNG or other) is what's stumping me.  I thought the Trace Bit map process was needed to convert the JPG photo to a vector photo suitable for wood engraving?  While I have produced a photo that will engrave using Trace Bitmap> Multicolor>Grays>Scans=24, as mentioned it is washed out on wood.  What I don't know or yet understand is if the problem is because of the modified photo file from Inkscape is not properly done, or if the issue is in the Epilog settings (its an Epilog Fusion Pro 32, 60 watt CO2 laser).  Maybe its a combo of both.  Or maybe the photo itself is the issue, as it does not have a highly differential makeup, not a real high contrast photo.  The coloration is subtle so maybe it just isn't engraving material?  It looks fine in Inkscape, even looks fine when placed in the Epilog desktop software.  I can provide an attachment if that would be helpful.  Thanks again for the response.

For engraving, there is no need to use vectors at all, the Epilogs can engrave bitmap images with out conversion or tracing to vector.

There will typically be a stage of testing the artwork and material to determine optimal power and speed settings Epilog provides tables that can be used as a rough guide. 

• I would test the bitmap artwork, adjusting the Epilog power and speed settings the get the best engrave on the type of wood being used.
• After that, I'd add in the text elements and test, if the engrave of the text is too dark, I'd lighten the fill color of the text and test until both the image and the text are suitable.

(At our makerspace, we always save the Inkscape files as PDF and "print" the pdf files to the lasers from Adobe reader.)

If you don't have a copy of the manual for the Epilog Fusion line: https://www.epiloglaser.com/assets/downloads/manuals/fusionseries-manual-web.pdf

Thanks Tyler for the clarification, sounds like I am making this way more complicated than it needs to be.  Next time I get some time on the Epilog at our makerspace I'll simplify the printing process by firstr saving the bitmap as a PDF and give that a try.  I thought it was likely the Epilog side of the process was where I needed to do the most work to get the photo right, with speed, power and dithering, but I wanted to be sure the photo that was being printed/engraved was proper first...and sounds like it probably is.  Thanks again, and thanks for the link to the Epilog manual as well.

Update - You were of course completely correct Tyler about everything, the bitmap of the photo ended up working just fine for photo engraving om wood.  The only thing I really used Inkscape for was to use Bezier to cutout the part of the photo I wanted to print, then save as an SVG.  After watching a few more tutorials and a lot of trial and error on the Epilog, I was able to find a very acceptable combination of Speed, Power, DPI and dithering.  Most surprising was the dithering change, as it rendered the most natural looking photo after changing to "Standard" dithering.  I had first tested with Stucki, per some info I got from one of the tutorials, but with many power, speed and DPI changes the output was not natural, not closest to the original photo.  I found what I think is the speed and power combo that works the best, but the change to Standard dithering was the final piece.  Another surprise was how increasing the DPI actually made the output a bit worse, and settling on 300 dpi seems to have worked best...so far, as I still have a lot of trial and error testing to do.  But thanks again for the tip on bitmap engraving, I guess I just got off on a tangent of vectorizing and couldn't break free till I got your post replies.  Thanks.