I've recently updated to Inkscape 1.2.1, and suddenly my snap toolbar has disappeared. They seem to have replaced it with a menu instead. Is there any way to turn it back into a more convenient toolbar? I've been through the preferences and I just can't find anything.

Not yet... there are updates in progress to return some functionality like the static snapping bar.

After the last update I can't get snapping to work at all.  I went to Edit > Preferences > Behavior > Snapping

Everything seems to be on, but I can't even get a line to snap to a guide.

Like the previous snapping toolbox, the primary on/off button needs to be active, or the top checkbox in the flyout.

I suggest using only a few snap settings active for better response.

Woah, the snapping toolbar is gone?! That was inkscape's best feature. Ugh, reverting to 0.92 I guess, unless someone can tell me what version they removed it in.

It will return in the next version. (Spring '23) 

Or you can use the 1.3 development version.